Jigokudani Monkey Park trip from Tokyo
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What can you do on a weekend in Nagano without skiing? The Jigokudani Monkey Park trip from Tokyo is an easy escape from the city. Take time to soak up the local culture and history and indulge in the fresh local food, while swooning over Nagano’s incredible scenery.
Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park)
In a four-hour driving burst from Tokyo, or a one-and-a-half-hour shinkansen you can be at Jigokudani Yaen Koen, the Snow Monkey Park in beautiful Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park in the northern part of Nagano. It’s a perfect weekend trip to escape busy Tokyo.
Ever since ancient times, people called this place, Jigokudani (Hell Valley) because of its extreme weather. This area is covered in snow one-third of the year, and the monkeys survive this harsh environment by keeping warm in the onsen waters.
The troops of wild Japanese macaque monkeys can be seen casually strolling among the tourists, while some bathe in the onsen, others gaze peacefully at the scenery, and some fight for dominance. It’s an interesting and hectic scene. The baby macaques are seriously the cutest though, especially while being cuddled by their mama.
We visited in mid-March when the snow had almost disappeared, but there were still plenty of monkeys to observe.
Gumboots or snowboots are essential
The forest path is muddy and slippery so make sure you bring appropriate snow or gumboots for the 2km walk. There are buckets and brushes in the car park to clean your shoes afterward!
To get to the monkeys, first, we walked 2km along a mostly flat, but muddy forest path. It is a lovely walk with a tranquil and serene atmosphere. Right at the end, you walk up a flight of steep stone steps and pay entry.
On the other side are hundreds of macaques completely ignoring their many onlookers!
Although the website does say the macaques are wild and may not be present every day, it would be bad luck if you visited and they weren’t around, but even so, the park is beautiful.
It’s possible to get quite close to the monkeys, however, signs request that you stay at least one metre from the monkeys and definitely do not touch them or feed them.
Tickets to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (snow monkey park)
You can buy tickets at the end of the 2km walk through the forest, so remember to bring your wallet from the car park! Adults are 800 yen each while children are 400 yen each.
Tours of Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (snow monkey park)
A good option for an easy trip from Tokyo is to book a guided tour which includes lunch and round-trip transportation.
Klook’s Tokyo Pass includes the option to include a round trip to see the monkeys with a lunch buffet and also a side trip to the Roman museum.
Considering this tour is one of the more expensive attractions singularly, adding it to this pass makes it great value overall. The price of the Tokyo Pass depends on how many attractions you include, but for example, three attractions costs 7,000 yen and you can also include Disney tickets (which are hard to get and also expensive in comparison!).
Although the guides are speaking Japanese on this tour, they offer translation via iPad. Kids under two are also included free of charge. Pick up and drop off are in Shinjuku.
Eating at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (snow monkey park)
There is a cute cafe at the start of the 2km walk to the monkeys called Enza which offers fresh, hot apple pie and apple ice cream as well as some light meals.
Further along the path, there are some signs pointing to another cafe up called Rausu-an which serves noodles and tempura. We didn’t visit as we felt like snacks, but it gets good reviews as sounds as though it’s a friendly, local little restaurant.
Souvenir Shopping at the Snow Monkey Park
There are two souvenir shops in the park, one near the car park and one at the ticket building, right at the monkeys. They offer cute ornaments, key rings, and even a snow monkey bath salt set for you to use at home.
Toilets at the Snow Monkey Park
There is a toilet block in the free car park closest to the start of the walk to the monkeys. This toilet block does not have baby change facilities.
At Snow Monkey Park, after the 2km walk, there are also toilets with baby change facilities, so no need to worry during your long walk!
How to get to the snow monkeys in Nagano?
Saturday morning departure from Tokyo
I’ve learned the hard way that departing Tokyo on a Friday night for a weekend away can sometimes be fraught. We’ve found, leaving early on a Saturday is a less-trafficky option!
Access by car
If you have a car or can rent one, this is an easy option. The drive takes around four hours from Tokyo and is quite easy along efficient highways with many rest stops. The Myoshi rest stop in Saitama is wonderful for food trucks, snacks, local goods, huge clean toilet amenities and more.
Access by bullet train
The fastest way to get to Nagano from Tokyo is via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. On the fastest train, the Kagayaki, you will arrive in around one and a half hours.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen is covered by the JR Pass, which makes the snow monkeys an easy day or weekend trip from Tokyo. You can catch this train from Tokyo or Ueno Stations.
Once you arrive at Nagano Station, take the Shigakogen express bus directly to Snow Monkey Park. It will take you directly from the east exit of Nagano Station to the Snow Monkey Park bus stop in just 45 minutes. From there, you can walk to the park in about 35 to 40 minutes.
Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (snow monkey park) details
Hours: 9am-4pm
Address: 6845 Hirao, Yamanochi, Shimotakai District, Nagano 381-0401
Cost: 800 yen per adult, 400 yen per child. There is a discount for people with disabilities also.
What else to do nearby?
Visit beautiful Takayama village
Takayama village is around one hour’s drive from the Snow Monkey Park and it’s listed as one of ‘Japan’s most beautiful villages‘, which is part of the International Federation of Beautiful Villages on Earth.
The town is full of historical buildings, farms, orchards and hot springs. It’s a lovely quiet place to base yourself and explore Nagano.
What to do in Takayama, Nagano
Kobayashi Issa Museum, Issakan
Who was Issa?
Kobayashi Issa (known simply as Issa, a pen name for a ‘cup-of-tea’) was a famous Japanese poet and Buddhist priest famous for his haiku poems. He is one of Japan’s four great haiku masters.
Issa was born in 1763 and died in 1828, living a long life and losing many family members during this time. He spent the later years of his life in Takayama village, hence the location of the museum.
Issa led a trauma-filled life, losing many people close to him. His mother, his doting grandmother who raised him, his wife and three of his children all died. Hence this famous haiku:
(生き残り生き残りたる寒さかな) [Outliving them,/Outliving them all,/Ah, the cold!
Issa was also known for showing his heart through verse. For example, one haiku read:
New Year’s Day—
everything is in blossom!
I feel about average.
What is haiku
Haiku is a short Japanese poem with a specific pattern. It has 17 phonetic units in a 5-7-5 pattern. They include a ‘cutting word’ and a seasonal reference.
What to see at the museum?
The museum is quite small, but has quite an interesting shape and architectural design. Issa’s famous original works are on display in the museum including some with his famous simple drawings.
All the exhibits are in Japanese, but you can use google translate to check the meanings of the plaques. They also have some super cute, tiny dioramas the kids enjoyed.
Issa’s Last Work is on display here, a piece titled ‘Father’s Last Diary’ which was previously on display in the National History Museum in Tokyo.
In the garden, you can also view Issa’s guesthouse, originally belonging to Shunkou Kubota, one of Issa’s disciples.
It has the original thatched roof and can even be booked for special events. But it’s a nice piece of history to observe.
Hours: 9am-5pm (closed Mondays and national holidays and also from 28 Dec to 3 Jan)
Cost: 500 yen for adults, 150 yen for elementary and secondary students
Address: 5161-1 Takai Ooaza, Takayama, Kamitakai, Nagano, Japan, 382-0825
Access: By public transport, take the Nagano Dentetsu train to Suzaka. From Suzaka, take the 3 bus or taxi to Issakan.
If you arrive by car, there is a free car park opposite the museum.
More information: https://www.kobayashi-issa.jp/
Tanaka Family Museum (Shinshusuzaka Tanaka Honke Museum)
The Tanaka Family Museum is a wonderful place to visit in Suzaka, just five minutes drive from Takayama and this home was a place often visited by Issa himself.
The family were wealthy merchants who traded grain, soy sauce, rice wine, cotton and tobacco from 1733.
Their compound measures 2.44 acres and is surrounded by 20 clay store houses which are now galleries. The house is grand and now holds the Tanaka family’s most treasured artifacts including ceremonial kimonos, scrolls, folding screens and even toys.
There is also a haiku here composed by Issa the morning after he stayed at the compound and gazed upon their beautiful garden.
In spring the garden is awash with red and white plum blossoms and in autumn the red foliage is stunning. The garden also has a serene koi pond a 250-year-old weeping cherry and a 240-year-old Shala tree which blossoms in summer.
The gift shop has some beautiful pottery and handmade gifts to take home. You can peruse while being served tea and a small snack of pickled vegetables.
Hours: 9:30am-5:00pm (Apr-Nov); 10am-3:30pm (Dec-Feb); 9:30am-4:30pm (March)
Closed on Tuesdays (Except March, April, August, October and November)
Cost: 800 yen for adults, 350 yen for high school and 250 yen for elementary school
Address: 〒382-0085 Nagano, Suzaka, Koyama, 穀町476
Access: From Nagano Station, take the Nagano Dentetsu Express (15 mins) to Suzaka Station, take a taxi (5 mins)
More information: https://tanakahonke.org/
By car, there is free parking next to the museum.
Where to eat in Takayama, Nagano
Soba Kouzantei restaurant, Takayama, Nagano
Soba Kouzantei is a relaxed soba restaurant offering floor seating and also western tables.
The set meals are ample and delicious and all are priced under 2,000 yen each.
It’s a very kid-friendly restaurant and they offer high chairs and have baby change tables. They also offer kids meals that come with a toy children can choose from a basket.
Hours: 11:30 – 2pm & 5pm – 8pm (closed Wednesdays, except during holidays such as Obon & Golden Week).
Address: Takai, Takayama Village, Kamitakai District, Nagano Prefecture 382-0800
Reservation: It’s probably not necessary, we walked in on a Saturday at opening. But during holidays and other busy times, book ahead by calling: 026-248-1320 (+81-26-248-1320)
Access: It’s probably easiest to drive here, and there is free parking for around 50 cars.
How to eat soba
Nagano is famous for soba noodles and often they are served cold. Because of Nagano’s harsh climate, it was difficult to grow rice, so the locals were able to make soba from buckwheat.
The way to eat soba, especially in the instance of this restaurant, is to take the soba and dip it into the sauce before putting it into your mouth. Feel free to slurp.
If you wish, add some wasabi or onions to the chopsticks before picking up the soba.
The staff will then deliver some hot Sobayu which is the leftover cooking water from the soba for you to pour into the dipping sauce. Then you drink the leftover sauce and Sobayu for good health.
Sobayu – add to dipping sauce and drink
Sobayu is the leftover hot water used to cook soba. You add the water to the soba dipping sauce after you finish your soba and drink it.
Where to stay in Takayama, Nagano
ゲストハウス「古民家の宿梨本軒」Guest House Yado Nashi Honken
This guest house is 300 years old, but has modern amenities and is hosted by the loveliest couple.
It’s not for toddlers however, as there are antiques, artifacts and priceless painted paper screens in the room.
The futons were thick and cosy and even had electric blankets to keep us toasty and warm.
The guest quarters consist of the tatami room with futons prepared, a private living room where the hosts provided us green tea and apple upon arrival, two small sunrooms overlooking Japanese gardens and a private toilet, urinal and basin.
For the bathing amenities, the hosts prepare the bath in their house. It’s delightful. Breakfast is also served at their dining table in the kitchen. They served us traditional breakfast salmon, toast, salad, vegetable and meat stew, rice, miso, mini sausages and more!
This stay is for people who want to interact with their Japanese hosts and experience a real Japanese home. We absolutely loved it. Although the hosts cannot speak English, they have mastered google translate and use it to communicate effectively.
Address: 長野県上高井郡高山村大字高井１６０, 高山村, 382-0800, Japan
This guest house address is listed in Japanese, so it’s a little hard to find for English speakers. I suggest putting the soba restaurant Soba Kouzantei into your search, then drive a few minutes north looking for the guest house on the same side of the road.
How to book: Use booking.com Guest House Yado Nashi Honken
Access: It’s easiest to drive here or get a taxi. The guest house has free parking after you navigate the skinny driveway.
Where is Nagano?
Nagano is a large prefecture within around 3-4 hours driving from Tokyo. Renting a car is easy in Tokyo as long as you check your licence requirements. For example, Australians and Americans must have an international driver’s licence to rent a car.
The fastest way to get to Nagano from Tokyo is via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The fastest train is the Kagayaki and you will arrive in around one and a half hours from Tokyo or Ueno Stations.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen is covered by the JR Pass, which makes the snow monkeys an easy day or weekend trip from Tokyo.
Where is the Snow Monkey Park?
Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) is in northern Nagano at an altitude of 850 metres. It’s located in the stunning Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park.
Jigokudani means Hell Valley
The intense climate in this region with snow covering the land for almost three-quarters of the year earned this region the title of ‘Hell Valley’. It’s difficult for anything to grow and survive, hence why the monkeys stay warm in the onsen water!
The Snow Monkey Park is an easy one-and-a-half-hour Shinkansen from Tokyo, or a three-four hour drive.
If you are in the area skiing and want a day to sightsee, Monkey Park is just 20 minutes from Shiga Kogen Ski Resort.
It’s also possible to book day tours direct from Tokyo via Klook, and Klook’s Tokyo Pass offers substantial discounts on Tokyo attractions and a trip to the Snow Monkeys can be included.
The tour also includes a lunch buffet and also a side trip to the Roman Museum.
What is Nagano famous for?
Nagano is the name of the largest city inside Nagano prefecture and also the name of the prefecture itself.
This region is probably most famous to foreigners as the location of the 1998 Winter Olympic Games or a ski holiday destination. Nagano is the home of Hakuba, a popular ski destination as well as Shiga Kogen, Nozawaonsen and Karuizawa.
Nagano has an important temple called Zenkoji which houses the very first Buddha statue brought to Japan in the 6th century when Buddhism was introduced. The original statue is usually hidden and only opened to the public every six years for a few weeks. The next sighting is due in 2028. The creation of this temple, led to Nagano becoming a temple town.
Nagano is one of the largest producers of cultivated and wild mushrooms in Japan. Therefore they make up an important part of the local cuisine. Try mushroom tempura on ramen or soba. It’s delightful!
Nagano is also famous for buckwheat soba noodles as rice is difficult to grow. Take the time to enjoy the local soba with dipping sauce and your choice of wasabi and onion flavoring.
Round up of Snow Monkey Park, Nagano
In mid-March when we visited, there wasn’t a huge amount of snow left, however, there were still plenty of monkeys. If you dream of seeing the monkeys soaking inside the onsen, come earlier than March when winter is in full swing and they need to stay warm.
Take in the scenery and history of the area by exploring the cute Takayama village. Make sure you slurp up some local soba and eat some fresh, juicy apples.
This is the place to soak in Nagano scenery, meet the locals (human and monkey) and enjoy a traditional Japanese escape from Tokyo.
