A short trip from Tokyo – Gunma
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5 top things to do in Gunma – eat dessert in a footbath, paint a Daruma doll, visit the onsen that inspired Spirited Away and drive on a musical road
Want to escape the city bustle and enjoy nature and Japanese culture? Gunma is the place.
Takasaki in Gunma is the perfect short trip from Tokyo. It’s around 2 hours drive or 1.5 hours by public transport. Gunma has everything you could want, including scenery and nature, great food, and cultural activities like Daruma doll painting!
1. Paint a Daruma doll at Daimonya
The Japanese believe Takasaki is the birthplace of the Daruma doll. These dolls are ‘good luck charms’ and are usually bought at temples during New Years’ festivals.
The eyes are left intentionally blank for you colour one pupil upon making a wish. You colour in the other when the wish comes true.
Daruma in Gunma has a 200-year-long history. Tomogoro Yamagata, a farmer in Takasaki first made Daruma in the off-season, and the tradition soon spread across Japan.
Daruma dolls’ face paint meaning
The face of the Daruma is painted with a crane above the eyes, a turtle on the cheeks and Mount Fuji on the chin. These all represent good luck and longevity as the Japanese believe the crane will live for 1,000 years and the turtle for 10,000 years.
Daimonya in Takasaki is the largest producer of Daruma in Japan. Their incredible store full of colourful Daruma also hosts painting workshops and a tour facility.
Personally, I love Daruma. I love what they represent; making goals at the beginning of the new year and then working towards completing them. We decided a 45-minute painting session would be a bit long for our kids, so we opted for the handprint. It was a wonderful experience.
Daruma handprint experience
The kids chose their Daruma from the many options in the store. It had to be at least 12cm and big enough for the handprint to fit. Then the printing took only around 5-10 minutes.
The super helpful staff could speak English and asked the children their goals and aspirations to paint on the front. Then their names were added to the back in katakana for a small fee (330 yen).
The kids loved this experience and now we have a special memento. Typically Japanese burn these at the temple once the wishes have come true, but maybe we will just keep ours!
How to book: To book a painting workshop, visit the Daimonya website.
Cost: The hand painting workshop costs 500 yen per person. You first need to purchase the Daruma which start at around 1,450 yen for a 12cm doll. It’s 330 yen extra for the master painter to include your personal goals and name.
Hours: 9am – 5pm
Address: 124-2 Fujitsuka-cho, Takasaki City, Gunma Prefecture 370-0875
Access: There is a large car park right next to the workshop if you are driving. Daimonya is around two hours drive from Tokyo.
By public transport: Take a train to Takasaki Station (around two hours from Tokyo), or take the Joetsu Shinkansen for 50 minutes, then take a bus or taxi for 20 minutes to Daimonya.
2. Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple
While we’re on the topic of Daruma, the next stop should be the Shorinzan Daruma-ji Temple. This is also nearby Daimonya in Takasaki.
Shorinzan Daruma-ji was built in 1697 with Daruma selling and wishing likely originating here. The founder of the temple, Shinetsu, drew pictures of Bodhidharma to give to farmers as good talismans. Bodhiharma was the founder of the zen sect of Buddhism.
The ninth priest of the temple then created a wooden depiction of the drawing made by Shinetsu during the famine of the Tenmei Period (1781-1788).
Ema (picture horse)
Ema charms are the wooden plaques commonly purchased at shrines or temples for wishes. People write their wishes, then tie the ema to string at the shrine for the gods or spirits. Originally, people brought horses as gifts in return for wishes, now people use these wooden plaques instead, hence the name picture horse.
A shop at the temple sells Daruma dolls in all sizes. There is also a small room housing non-traditional Daruma to peruse.
You can also buy Daruma-shaped Ema which are small wooden plaques to write wishes. You can buy drinks from the Daruma vending machine and even purchase a Daruma good luck gonpachon.
The temple grounds are also very pretty. There is a koi pond, views over Takasaki city from the hilltop and beautiful gardens surrounding the temple.
Hours: 9am – 5pm
Address: 296 Hanadakamachi, Takasaki, Gunma 370-0868
Access: This temple is a 15 minute drive from Takasaki Station or 2 hours’ drive from Tokyo. By public transport, take the 25 minute Shorinzan bus 1 or 2 from Takasaki Station.
3. Kusatsu onsen town
Kusatsu is a gorgeous mountain town with an abundance of high-quality hot spring water. The town is 1200 metres above sea level and boasts excellent skiing in the wintertime.
We visited in Autumn and were astounded by the charm of this place. The narrow, hilly streets are full of unique shops and cafes with a local village feel. We strolled by a sweet shop where the owners handed out sweets and green tea on the street. It was oishii (yummy)!
Japanese people believe this spring water has healing properties. People come from all over Japan for the healing spring water. They believe the water will heal you of everything, except love sickness! It doesn’t smell the best, but the sight is unbelievable.
Foot bath cafe!
There is a free public foot bath on the street. Instead, we opted for an indoor cafe-style footbath at Yubatake Souan Cafe with drinks and dessert! This place is also a ryokan if you wish to stay overnight.
Surprisingly, the kids’ ice cream dessert included a slightly poached egg! The staff told us the dessert included an ‘onsen egg’ which was lightly poached in hot spring water. Neat!
Visit the Netsunoya Building while you are in Kusatsu and pay 600 yen to watch Yumomi. This traditional performance cools the hot spring water without diluting the minerals with cold water. The performers, usually around 10 women, sing and dance as they beat the water with wooden paddles.
Hours: Yubatake Souan Cafe is open from 10am until 9:30pm
Address: 118-1 Kusatsu-cho, Agatsuma-gun, Gunma prefecture
Access: Kusatsu onsen town is a 3.5 hour drive from Tokyo or 1 hr and 10 mins drive from Takasaki.
By public transport: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Karuizawa from Ueno Station in Tokyo (1hr 11 mins) then take a bus to Kusatsu (1 hr 16 mins).
4. Shima Lake and Shima Potholes
Shima Lake is renowned for its cobalt blue colour, which people commonly refer to as ‘Shima Blue’.
The Shima Potholes are also incredibly stunning, especially in Autumn. The Shima blue contrasts beautifully with the sunset colours of the surrounding foliage.
There are approximately eight potholes in total, all caused by erosion over thousands of years. The largest pool is 2.9 metres wide and 1.5 metres deep. The whole scene is magical, and you can even walk right down next to the water for a close-up view.
This is a great place to go for a hike. One kilometre upstream is Momotaro Falls, close to the secluded and peaceful Shima Onsen, nestled in the mountains.
Here is the link to Sekizenkan Kashotei Sanso hotel, the inspiration behind the Studio Ghibli classic, Spirited Away! This bathhouse was built in 1691 and is one of Japan’s oldest wooden bathhouses still in existence. It looks stunning in the evening with its bright red bridge.
Melody roads
Did you know Japan has musical roads that reward you with a tune if you drive at the correct speed? A section of road between Nakanojo and Shima Onsen plays the song ‘Always with me’ from the film Spirited Away! Gunma has 11 melody roads. It’s also a clever incentive by the local government to get motorists to stick to the speed limit!
Address: Shima Potholes – 3520 Shima, Nakanojo, Agatsuma District, Gunma 377-0601
Access: Driving a car is the easiest way to reach Shima Onsen. It will take around 3 hours to drive from Tokyo.
By public transport, it will take around 3.5 hours. Take a train to JR Nakanojo Station, then buses run hourly to Shima Onsen.
5. Drive Japan’s Romantic Road
Japan has a version of Germany’s Romantic Road that goes for around 320km. Japan’s Romantic Road traverses the prefectures of Nagano, Gunma and Tochigi.
The Gunma part of the journey is stunning. The mountainous road winds through forests and volcanoes showcasing clear lakes and streams, in between scenic onsen towns, rural villages and picturesque temples.
The road gets snowy in Winter and at the start of Spring, so it’s best to plan this trip at alternate times. Autumn showcases the very best foliage in Japan and Gunma is famous for this. Plus, in my opinion, an onsen holiday is best experienced when it’s slightly chilly.
It’s best to allow around 4-5 days to drive the whole road and take in all the sights. However, you could always pick a section to do, one at a time.
We found a cute cafe, Cafe Kurasaka, in the woods way up in the mountains. Here we enjoyed a peaceful stop, next to the fireplace. We had some delicious toasted sandwiches (waffles for the kids), and a lovely conversation with the owner. They also sell handmade goods and sporting equipment at the cafe.
Where is Gunma?
Gunma is a landlocked prefecture in the Kanto Region of Japan within a couple of hours of Tokyo. Gunma makes a wonderful short trip from the city if you are looking for mountains, onsens, and interesting cultural activities.
Japan is divided into 47 prefectures. These can be loosely described as being like a state in Australia or the US. Each prefecture has its own unique food, customs, and highlights. In Japan, prefectures are usually described with ‘ken’, such as Gunma-ken.
Gunma is surrounded by the prefectures; Niigata, Nagano, Yamanashi, Saitama and Tochigi. The capital of Gunma is Maebashi, but the largest city in the prefecture is Takasaki.
What is Gunma famous for?
Gunma is famous for its many onsen towns and is the go-to place for a relaxing getaway from Tokyo. Popular onsen towns in Gunma are Kusatsu, Shima, Ikaho, Minakami and Manza.
Gunma is also famous for being the birthplace for Daruma doll production, and Japan’s silk production.
This prefecture is home to the first modern silk factory in Japan. Visit the World Heritage Listed Tomioka Silk Mill built in the late 1800s. It’s on our list for next time! Stay tuned.
Where to stay in Gunma
The famous onsen towns of Kusatsu, Shima and Ikaho are all located in Gunma. These towns are great places to base yourself if you want to relax, hike or ski in winter.
If you love the film Spirited Away, stay at Sekizenkan Kashotei Sanso hotel in Shima. This is supposed to be the inspiration for the bath house in the film, when you see the red bridge you will understand why.
Kusatsu is a great place to stay. The town itself is gorgeous and there’s a lot to see and do. Kusatsu Onsen Eidaya is a good option for families, and provides a traditional Japanese ryokan experience close to the action.
Takasaki is another great option to stay if you plan on visiting Daimonya and the Shironzan Daruma-ji temple. As Takasaki is a bigger city there are plenty of cost-effective options available.
These big city chain hotels usually offer rooms for two people maximum. For families, multiple rooms may ned to be booked, but the lower price allows for this. Try the Dormy Inn Takasaki, which provides clean rooms and all you need for a simple but comfortable stay.
How to get to Gunma
Gunma is within short driving distance of Tokyo. By car, Takasaki is only around 1.5 – 2 hours north-west from Tokyo.
Public transport for tourists
Take the Hokuriku or the Joetsu Shinkansen to get to Takasaki in Gunma. The JR Pass covers travel on both these lines. The JR Pass also covers the cost of the JR bus to Kusatsu from Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station. However, it does not cover the bus from Karuizawa to Kusatsu.
Public transport for foreign residents
The JR East Niigata and Nagano pass is available to foreign residents in Japan. This line passes through Takasaki in Gunma, and this pass offers great value. The pass is 18,000 yen per adult and 9,000 yen per child for unlimited travel for five consecutive days. You could also combine this trip with Niigata and Nagano for an unforgettable journey.
For more details on JR East passes, read our helpful article.
For in-depth detail on getting to Gunma, visit the Japan Guide website.
Round-up of best things to do in Gunma
Gunma has a bit of everything and is especially wonderful for fall foliage lovers, hikers, skiiers and Daruma doll afficionados!
As Gunma is only 1.5 hours from Tokyo, it makes the perfect short trip for a weekend. A few more days will allow even more exploration however.
The whole family will love Gunma. Kids especially will love hand-painting a Daruma, making a wish at the Daruma temple and eating dessert in a hot spring foot bath. What’s not to love?
