Kumano Kodo Itinerary
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This five-day Kumano Kodo itinerary in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan is a scenic and spiritual experience.
There are Kumano Kodo trails to suit all levels of fitness. However, you need to know which are suitable for you! Some are relatively flat and easy and some are a little treacherous and wearying.
This five-day Kumano Kodo itinerary along the Nakahechi part of the trail begins and ends in Shirahama, Tanabe (the closest airport and main train hub). From there you will venture into the mountains to the famous onsen towns, down to the coast and finally up to the famous Nachi Falls.
This itinerary uses local buses and trains to travel in between locations.
This Kumano Kodo itinerary suits people with a medium level of fitness, but also includes an Option B for those wanting to do more relaxing and less hours of walking (which is also a great way to experience this area).
This Kumano Kodo itinerary also includes some local sightseeing, delicious food options, hotel options for all budgets and cultural highlights in addition to forest walks. Let’s go!
Five days of trekking, sightseeing and fun
This five-day Kumano Kodo itinerary is for people with moderate fitness and offers a self-guided tour of some of the main sights on the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo in Wakayama Prefecture.
In addition to hiking, enjoy spiritual sights, nature, onsen rivers, tuna auctions, boat tours and more.
*Please note, I don’t suggest this itinerary for children as it involves too much walking, however, I do recommend bringing children to this part of Japan!
Kumano Kodo Itinerary Day 1: Travel to the mountains, Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha, the largest Torii gate in Japan and complete your first 2 km trail
- Arrive in Shirahama or Tanabe, Wakayama
- Travel to the onsen mountainous area by bus (approx two hours)
- Get off the bus at Watarase Onsen
- Walk to your accommodation and drop your bags
- Take a bus to Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha
- Buy your stamp book to use along the trails
- Complete your first 2km walk, the Dainichi-goe trail (1-2 hours)
- Along the trail see the largest Torii Gate in Japan – Oyunahara Torii
- Finish the trail at Yunomine Onsen and catch a bus back to your accommodation
- Onsen, food and relax!
- Stay two nights in your accommodation in either Kawayu, Yunomine or Watarase Onsen
It’s your first day! Arrive in the beautiful beach city of Shirahama also famous for its five giant pandas at Adventure World. Get ready to see kawaii (cute) panda merchandise everywhere!
Wakayama has a humid subtropical climate, characterised by warm summers and little to no snowfall in winter. This explains why you will find tall palm trees and colourful hibiscus flowers in the prefecture.
1. Arrive in Wakayama Prefecture, either by plane or train
Fly to Nanki-Shirahama airport from Tokyo’s Haneda airport, or catch the Kuroshio Express (Panda Train!) from Osaka or Wakayama City to Kii-Tanabe Station to begin this journey.
I got the early 7:30 am flight from Tokyo Haneda airport to Nanki-Shirahama airport and it worked perfectly with getting the 91 Rapid Kumano Kodo bus to the mountains.
9:28 am: From Nanki-Shirahama airport, catch the Number 91 Rapid (Kumano Kodo) Express Bus to the Kumano Kodo trails.
or
10:14 am: From Kii-Tanabe Station, catch the same Number 91 Rapid (Kumano Kodo) Express Bus.
**Please double-check the bus timetable with Google Maps to ensure the same schedule is running**
It is also possible to rent a car with this itinerary and this can be done either at Nanki-Shirahama airport or Kii Tanabe Station.
2. Catch a bus to Watarase Onsen
This Kumano Kodo itinerary focuses on part of the Nakahechi route covering the main shrines and sights. It’s a long route, but we have condensed it into five days by skipping a few walks.
Want to trek for more than five days?
There are many more trails you can include if you have more time. If you have more than five days to complete the trail, you can start at Takajiri and continue from there. However, for this condensed itinerary, depart the bus at Watarase Onsen.
How to catch the Number 91 Rapid Kumano Kodo bus
For this Kumano Kodo itinerary we maximise the use of Japan’s efficient public transport, especially buses in this area to get around cost-effectively.
3. Get off the bus at Watarase Onsen
11:43 am: Alight the 91 Rapid bus at Watarase Onsen and walk to your accommodation where you can hopefully drop your bags early, otherwise there are lockers at Yunomine Onsen.
It’s a 30-minute walk from Watarase Onsen to Yunomine Onsen, or you can catch the local bus 80 Kumano Hongu Line leaving earliest 1:11 pm, so I suggest getting some lunch in Watarase Onsen first.
It’s a 20-minute, easy walk from Watarase Onsen to Kawayu onsen.
From Nanki-Shirahama to Watarase Onsen, the 91 Rapid bus cost is ¥2,500. From Kii-Tanabe Station to Watarase Onsen, the bus cost is ¥1,930. **Try to have the exact change ready if possible.**
Bring yen – lack of card facilities
In this part of Wakayama, most places accept cash only, including some buses, so bring enough yen with you and don’t rely on credit cards.
4. Take a bus to the Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha
Let’s end the first day with a trip to the famous Kumano Hongu Taisha where you can buy your stamp book, see Japan’s biggest Torii Gate and trek your first trail the Dainichi-goe.
1:30 pm: From Kawayu Onsen outside Fujiya hotel (Fujiya-mae), take the 81 Kumano Hongu Bus to Hongu Taisha-mae. It’s a 20-minute ride and you will arrive at the southern end of the shrine. **Be sure to check the current bus timetables and cross-check with Google Maps.**
Enjoy the beautiful world heritage Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of Kumano Sanzen, the three great shrines of Kumano and head shrine to over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan.
The entrance is majestic, surrounded by giant cedar and cypress trees on either side of the stone staircase.
Once arriving at the top of all the stairs you will find the main pavilion, a shrine office, a worship hall and a shop to buy talismans such as the ema (wooden block for prayers), the shrine book for stamps, and omamori good luck charms.
Bring lucky ¥5 coins
The luckiest coin of all Japanese coins is the ¥5, called ‘go-en dama’ in Japanese. ‘Go-en’ has the same pronunciation as the word for destiny hence it’s thought to bring about fortunate events.
Bring a little pouch of ¥5 coins on the Kumano Kodo trail. Please also read up on shrine etiquette before your journey.
6. Begin your first trek: Dainichi-goe
2:30 pm: Now it’s time to begin your first trek of your Kumano Kodo itinerary! The Dainichi-goe is a short but quite steep trail and it begins at Kumano Hongu Taisha and ends at Yunomine Onsen.
The walk begins easily through the town, crossing over some rice farms and then leading toward the Oyunahara Otorii, the biggest Torii Gate in all of Japan. It’s truly mesmerising.
This torii is situated on Oyunohara, the area where the Kumano Hongu Taisha used to reside before it was relocated due to flooding.
After admiring this scenic location, it’s time to start the steep, but short 2km Dainichi-goe trail, part of the Hongu Loop. Expect to spend 1-2 hours on this walk through scenic forest.
At the finale of this walk, you will find yourself back in Yunomine Onsen with clean toilets near the public baths and vending machines. Here you will also find the onsen where you can cook your own onsen egg!
4:41 pm or 6:38 pm: Catch the 85 Kumano Hongu bus back to Watarase Onsen or Kawayu Onsen, whichever is closest to your accommodation. Remember to check Google Maps, or the local bus timetable to confirm bus times and cost.
6. Celebrate your first day of Kumano with a delicious dinner
Your hotel may offer a delicious meal, but if you are looking for a nice place for dinner in Kawayu Onsen, I can recommend ときわや Tokiwaya for its great food, friendly service and beautiful view directly out over Oto River.
Try their Kumano beef hot pot, it’s just what you need after your first day of this Kumano Kodo itinerary!
Where to stay in Yunomine, Watarase or Kawayu Onsen
For this Kumano Kodo itinerary, book accommodation for the first two nights in either Yunomine Onsen, Watarase Onsen or Kawayu Onsen. I suggest these places because the onsen will be a wonderful treat after trekking and they’re all majestic!
Yunomine Onsen is very convenient as it’s the intersection of the trails so you can start trekking directly from your hotel.
Kawayu Onsen is a special treat because it’s situated on an onsen river! The Oto River in Kawayu is a hot spring river, so you can enjoy onsen in the great outdoors, by digging yourself a little pool in the rocks, or enjoy one someone already made.
Kawayu Onsen river is tattoo friendly
Bring your (modest) swimmers and walk down to the river in your hotel’s yukata (robe) and slippers. Then enjoy the warm spring water beside the picturesque blue river. Tattoos are fine. You are not likely not have many people nearby. But remember you are in modest Japan, so you may not want to be wearing a bikini, you might feel more comfortable in a cover-up, or some swimming shorts and a rash shirt.
Yunomine Onsen accommodation options:
- Budget but comfortable: J-Hoppers Kumano Yunomine Guesthouse
- Mid-range hotel and traditional: Ryokan Adumaya
- Higher range, more luxurious: Guest House Takiyoshi
Watarase Onsen accommodation options:
- Budget but comfortable farmhouse: Guesthouse Okagesan
- Mid-range hotel with onsen: Watarase Onsen Hotel Yamayuri
- Higher range hotel: Watarase Onsen Hotel Sasayuri
Kawayu Onsen accommodation options:
- Budget but comfortable: Minshuku Sumiya
- Mid-range inn: Ashita no Mori
- Higher range hotel: Kawayu Onsen Fujiya
My personal suggestion is to stay at Kawayu Onsen
Personally, I suggest staying in Kawayu Onsen, as a base for these two nights as it’s a rare and special treat to onsen in an actual river surrounded by nature. All hotels listed under Kawayu Onsen are directly opposite the river.
Kumano Kodo itinerary Day 2: A big day of hiking, complete the Hongu Loop
On this day of the Kumano Kodo itinerary you will do a lot of hiking, approximately 13.5 kilometres to complete the Hongu Loop, so prepare yourself well.
Ensure you have enough water, (a camelbak is great), a first aid kit, sunscreen, hat, bug spray, rain poncho and small snacks. A full packing list is at the end of this article.
- Option A: Catch an early 5:51 am bus to Yunomine Onsen and trek the Akagi-goe trail (6.5km)
- Option B: Sleep in and catch a bus straight to Hosshinmon-oji and start trekking from there (7km)
- Both options: Hike Hoshhinmon-oji to Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha
- Take a bus back to your accommodation
- Onsen and relax!
- Stay your second night in either Yunomine Onsen, Watarase Onsen or Kawayu Onsen
1. Option A: Catch the bus to Yunomine Onsen
5:51 am: Good morning early bird! From Kawayu Onsen, or Watarase Onsen (if you stayed there) catch the bus to the start of the trails. It’s an early start, but worth it! (Please skip to Option B if you want a later start and an easier walk today!)
2. Option A: Hike the Agaki-goe trail (6.5 km, 3-4 hours, moderately difficult)
After 18 minutes on the bus, you will arrive at Yunomine Onsen. Then begin trekking the Akagi-Goe section of the trail (unbroken white line trail on the map above). This is a 6.5 km walk with an incline to a high ridgeline and back down again.
Expect to spend 3-4 hours on this trail climbing to an elevation of over 460 metres, more than double the elevation of the Dainichi-goe route you completed yesterday.
This trail is quite remote, without toilets or vending machines along the way. So ensure you have enough water, a rain poncho, first aid kit (I did encounter a snake on this trail!).
Use the toilet at the public baths in Yunomine Onsen before you start!
The Tanabe Kumano Tourism Bureau classes this walk with a rating difficulty of 2.5 and yesterday’s Dainichi-goe trek was a rating of 2. However, please note these ratings increase in the rain and if you are already fatigued.
Akagi-goe trail is a little tricky in parts
This trail contains some very narrow walkways close to the edge of steep cliffs, lots of slippery rocks and protruding tree roots. So it’s best to opt out of this trail in the rain or with children. There is also a log bridge over a ravine with slippery moss, and you may need to crawl across like I did!
We didn’t encounter many people on this trail at all, so I suspect it’s not as popular and I understand why. I found it quite difficult in parts, so I suggest it’s for the seasoned hiker!
Once you make your final windy descent of the Akagi-goe walk, you have the option to continue walking the rest of the loop, (come on you can do it, this bit is easier!) or you can catch a bus from Hosshinmon-Oji.
At Hosshinmon-oji, you will find a peaceful rest area with tables and chairs, vending machines, clean toilets and a bus stop. Take a break here and then continue on, this part continues with Option B.
Option B – skip Akagi-goe trail and catch a bus direct to Hosshinmon-oji (7km)
This is the option If you want a more chilled approach to the Kumano Kodo and want to sleep in a little and embark on an easier walk today.
You can take a bus straight to Hosshinmon-oji (approx 54 minutes) and then start walking to Grand Kumano Hongu Taisha from there (the white broken line on the map)
3. Hike Hosshinmon-Oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (7 km, 2-3 hours, moderate)
Now you’ve rested up at Hosshinmon-Oji (or starting your day if you chose Option B), get ready for this pleasant walk back to Kumano Hongu Taisha (white dotted trail on the Hongu loop map above).
We saw many more people on this part of the course as it’s a more popular option and not as difficult as Akagi-goe or Dainichi-goe.
Tanabe Kumano Tourism Bureau rates this walk a difficulty level 2. Personally, I found this walk a lot easier than Dainichi, but maybe they rate this a 2 because of the much longer 7 km length.
Yatagarasu the three-legged crow
Yatagarasu is the symbol of the Kumano Kodo. You will find references to this three-legged crow everywhere. These crows are believed to be messengers of God. With their excellent sense of direction, it is believed the crow will show you the way. The three legs refer to the three Kumano clans: Ui, Suzuki and Enomoto.
Along this Hosshinmon-oji trail, you will walk along local roads as well as forest mountain paths. There are more toilets, a cafe and shop options on this walk.
Support the locals by purchasing their goods from their roadside stalls/honesty boxes, and stop in at the little mountain-top cafe near Fushiogami Oji for a coffee and snack.
This open cafe serves light meals like sandwiches, cakes, coffee and water. They also sell local crafts and Kumano souvenirs. There is a clean western-style toilet here and best of all, incredible views over the valley. This is your last stop before a long forest walk, so stock up here.
4. Arrive at Hongu Taisha
This walk finishes back at Kumano Hongu Taisha, where you began your trail yesterday. From here you enter the Taisha from the northern entrance.
You will also find a Heritage Centre across the road from the Taisha if you are still feeling motivated.
Then, catch a bus back to your accommodation, rest your muscles in the onsen and enjoy a meal at your hotel or local restaurant.
Buses from Kumano Hongu Taisha depart around every hour and 15 minutes until 16:50 and it takes around 24 minutes. **However, always check timetables on Google Maps.**
Kumano Kodo itinerary Day 3: Shingu exploration day
On the third day of this Kumano Kodo itinerary, we are moving to the South-East Coast of Wakayama to Shingu, known on the Kumano trail as Wakayama’s scared south.
Choose a difficult hike today or choose an easier urban hike around the city of Shingu instead.
- Option A: hike a very difficult part of the trail then catch a bus to Shingu, or
- Option B: catch a bus straight to Shingu and hike from there (great if you don’t have luggage forwarding service)
- Option B: visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha
- Option B: visit the Shingu Tankaku Castle ruins and have a picnic
- Option B: visit the world-heritage ancient Asuka Shrine
- Option B: enjoy a home-cooked meal at Halte Cafe
- Option B: visit Hamaoji Shrine and view the ocean
- Option B: walk or take a bus to Kamikura Shrine
Option A: hike the difficult Kogumotori-goe trail (13 km), then bus to Shingu
If you are fit and an experienced hiker, take the Kogumotori-goe trail from Hongu area to Koguchi.
This trail is marked difficulty 4, twice the difficulty of Dainichi-goe and almost twice that of Akagi-goe. This trail is 13 km long and should take anywhere from 4.5 – 6 hours.
*Note that there isn’t much accommodation in Koguchi so it’s best to bus straight to Shingu after completing this trail from Koguchi. However plan carefully, as buses do not do this route every day and you may need to change in Kanmaru.
**Carefully check the Koguchi bus timetables before if you plan on this option.
Tip: be flexible in your plans in case of weather or fatigue
I did not complete the Kogumotori trail, as it was raining hence we knew it would be dangerous and to be honest, we were completely exhausted from the Hongu loop already. We skipped to Option B.
My tip: Be flexible and willing to change up your plans due to weather or fatigue.
1. Option B: catch a bus to Shingu then urban hike the city
This is a great option if it’s raining, or you tired yourself out yesterday. This option will give you more time to explore the beautiful Shingu area.
The bus to Shingu will take approximately 1 hour and 9 minutes from Watarase Onsen and will cost around ¥1450. Use Google Maps to find the most up-to-date bus timetable. (If it’s a rainy day, expect a lot of people to be on the bus, skipping the trails).
After arriving in Shingu, Drop your luggage at your accommodation or put it in a coin locker and head off on your adventure trek.
Start at the grandest of shrines in the area, the Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Its shiny red Torii gate beckons you inside and the surrounding forest fills you with serenity.
Goshuin or monk’s handwritten stamp
Don’t forget to buy a beautiful stamp book and buy your handwritten goshuin at each shrine or temple you visit. They are beautifully written in kanji and make a great memento. They usually cost around ¥1000 and are hand-written on the spot. Sometimes you may have to wait a short while.
2. Visit Shingu Tankaku Castle ruins
Include the Shingu Tankaku Castle Ruins on your Kumano Kodo itinerary for a delightful surprise! Even in the rain, I enjoyed exploring the ruins and the view from the top over the Kumano-gawa river and Kumano-hashi bridge was spectacular.
The ruins were named after Tankaku Hime, daughter of the samurai warrior Minamoto no Tameyoshi who lived here in the late 16th Century before it was taken over by the Mizuno Clan.
The city flourished under this rule and the prosperity of the region can still be felt through the beauty of the castle ruins.
Take a picnic or bento to Shingu Castle
There are many lovely places to sit and picnic around the castle grounds so take a bento or snack to enjoy in the castle surrounds and enjoy the beautiful views.
3. Visit the ancient Asuka Shrine
Asuka Shrine is a world-heritage shrine located on the southern side of the Kumano-gawa river. It was originally built in 423 BCE!
This quiet shrine is worth visiting for its serenity, beauty and long history. Remains of settlements and religious rites from the 8th Century BCE to 7th Century AD have been found here!
3. Lunch at Halte Cafe
By now you’ve probably worked up an appetite so why not stop at a local cafe for a delicious home-cooked meal. Halte Cafe was such a wonderful find after walking in the rain for so long!
Even though we couldn’t read the Japanese menu, the owners asked if we liked chicken, we said yes and then they presented with this sumptuous meal. Highly recommended! They also raise money for cats in need! Kawaii!
4. Visit unassuming Hama-Oji then stop by the ocean
This shrine is located in a residential area near the coast, hence is dedicated to the god of the Ocean Suijin.
5. Walk to Kamikura-Jinja or take a bus
Kamikura-Jinja is a shrine located on a steep cliff, half-way up Mount Gongen-yama. It is believed this is where gods first descended to Earth.
To reach this shrine, you must climb 538 steep, stone steps. From the top is a beautiful view of all of Shingu and the Oto Matsuri is held here every year on 6 February.
*I missed this shrine as it was pouring with rain the day I was in Shingu and we decided it probably wasn’t safe to climb 538 steep, wet and slippery stairs. But stay tuned, I will go back! It’s on the bucket list!
Where to stay in Shingu
- Budget and unique: Temple Hotel
- Mid-range guesthouse: Kokoyui Guesthouse Shingu
Kumano Kodo itinerary Day 4: visit coastal Nachikatsuura and majestic Nachisan with the biggest waterfall in Japan
This in my opinion, is the most exciting day of the whole trip! I have always wanted to see Nachi Falls and this is the day!
- Firstly get a train from Shingu to Kii-Katsuura
- Catch a bus up to Nachi-san
- Explore the shrine, pagoda and waterfall (optional hike)
- Explore Nachikatsuura and have a foot spa with the best view
- Splurge on your last night’s accommodation
1. Take a train from Shingu Station to Kii-Katsuura Station
From Shingu Station, it’s relatively easy to catch a 30-minute local train to Kii-Katsuura for only ¥240. However, if you’re heading off early and have the option to get the Limited Express Kuroshio train, it will take you 17 minutes and cost ¥1,530.
This trip is scenic, as the train passes the coastline, you are directly beside the ocean. Sit on the left side of the train for the best views.
After you arrive in Kii-Katsuura, place your baggage in a coin locker on the ground floor of the station. Coin lockers cost ¥500 for the smaller size or ¥700 for the large size. The lockers only take ¥100 coins. If you need change, you’ll need to ask the attendant at the station gate.
2. Bus up Mount Nachi to the sacred sites
From Kii-Katsuura Station, it’s easy to take the Kumano bus directly to the Nachi area. The bus takes around 30 minutes and costs around ¥1,200 for a round trip back to Kii-Katsuura station.
The bus has five stops in the area, so if you want to hike the trail, get off at the lowest point, Daimonzaka, then hike up (approx 3.5 hours) to the famous Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine. Otherwise, you can get off directly at the shrine (there are still a lot of stairs up from here!)
Take your time here. There is so much to this beautifully scenic area. Allow at least two hours to cover the shrine, pagoda and falls. If you decide to hike, allow another few hours.
Important sites at the Nachi complex
The walk from the Daimonzaka gate is gorgeous, however it’s 2.2km to Nachi Shrine and should take around 3.5 hours to walk.
The ancient camphor tree is around 850 years old and is a symbol of rebirth. Buy an ema (wooden tablet) write your wishes and then take the ema inside the tree and out again. This sounds bizarre but you will understand when you are there! Then tie up the ema outside the tree for the monks to bless.
You can go inside the pagoda! I haven’t been able to do this anywhere else in Japan! It costs only 300 yen to enter and you can climb the stairs inside the pagoda, admire its beautiful interiors and get a perfect photo of the waterfall from the top tier.
You can get up close to the Nachi waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan at 133 metres. Pay ¥300 at the store beside the falls to feel the water hitting your face. Please note, this is a special place to pray so please be respectful and quiet here.
There are a couple of small cafes with incredible views at Nachi-san so drop in for a coffee and snack before catching the bus back down the mountain to Kii-Katsuura.
3. Take the bus back to Nachikatsuura and enjoy a foot bath
The city of Nachikatsuura is incredibly pretty and well-known for having the biggest tuna market in all of Japan! (You can visit this market tomorrow.) Please enjoy some of the freshest tuna in Japan here!
In the centre of town, you will find some public foot baths beside the marina. Enjoy these baths with a view after all your hiking and exploring.
Don’t forget to get a selfie with the huge (fake) tuna hanging at the marina.
4. Check into your accommodation and enjoy your last night
Tonight I suggest you splurge a little on your accommodation, you deserve it!
The most gorgeous place to stay in Nachikatsuura is Kamenoi Hotel Nachi Katsuura. This hotel was undergoing renovations when I visited (April 2024), but the room I stayed in was the most beautiful I have seen in Japan and I had my own private balcony bath overlooking the ocean!
The meals were also incredibly delicious. They provided very traditional Japanese meals abundant in seafood, the signature of the region.
Meals included at Kamenoi Hotel Nachikatsuura
You can opt to have breakfast and dinner included in the room rate at this hotel and I highly suggest you do. Meals are traditional Japanese which is a wonderful experience. Don’t wear shoes or slippers inside the tatami-floor restaurant! Go prepared with nice socks!
Kumano Kodo itinerary Day 5: Tuna markets, boat cruise, small walk & travel back to Shirahama on the Panda train
- visit the famous Katsuura fish market, the biggest tuna market in all of Japan
- take a scenic boat cruise
- walk to a water shrine at low tide
- have your last scrumptious tuna lunch
- ride the cutest panda train back to Shirahama or Tanabe Station
1. Visit the largest tuna market in Japan, the Nachikatsuura tuna market
This incredible fish auction happens every single day in Nachikatsuura. From 7 am, you can witness the exciting tuna auctions. Some of the fish we saw were huge!
Tuna caught in this region are snared using the longline fishing method, developed in Japan back in the mid-1700s. It is believed this method allows tuna to be caught individually with minimal damage and stress to the fish.
At the adjacent Nigiwai Market you can enjoy a variety of dishes, including the famous tuna caught fresh in the Kii Peninsula region (Wakayama area), a specialty of this area.
2. Enjoy a scenic boat cruise around Kii-Katsuura
The coastline of Kii-Katsuura is spectacular and its rugged coastline is even more spectacular from the boat’s ocean view.
Take a scenic boat cruise from the Nachikatsuura tourist pier. The boat is cute, shaped like a whale and the views are stunning!
First, buy your tickets at the Ki-no-Matsushima cruising office directly opposite the wharf. Tickets cost around ¥1800 and the tours operate every day in good weather except for Wednesdays.
3. Visit the Benten Island Shrine at low tide
This tranquil shrine is located on the rocky Benten Island on the Ojaura Coast and can only be reached at low-tide so plan your visit ahead of time.
Make sure you wear sturdy shoes as you’ll be walking over rocky, uneven surfaces.
Next to Benten island, you will find a rustic foot bath, so bring along a small towel to dry off your feet. If you keep wandering alongside the foot bath you will also find a scenic coastal walk offering close-up views of the gorgeous Nanki Kumano Geopark.
4. Take the cute panda train back to Shirahama Station
The final step of this Kumano Kodo itinerary is to ride the cutest panda train, the Kuroshio Express. This train is shaped like a panda and it even has panda headrests and decor!
Take this train either back to Shirahama Station (1 hour 30 mins) if you plan to fly out of Wakayama or you can take this train to Osaka in around 3 hours 57 minutes.
Buy tickets for the Kuroshio Express at the ticket machines at Kii-Katsuura Station. These machines take credit cards. The cost from Kii-Katsuura to Shirahama Station is around ¥3,050. If you have difficulty, the station attendants are usually able to help.
Kuroshio Express (Panda Train)
This cute train is not a bullet train, however, it has the luxuries of one. It has huge seats, fold-down table trays, a large overhead luggage compartment, clean onboard toilets and garbage bins!
5. Take the Shirahama Loop bus back to the airport
From Shirahama Station, you can take the loop bus to Nanki-Shirahama airport. The bus will take around 21 minutes and will cost 360 yen.
If you have some more time before your flight, why not stop in at Adventure World and see the real pandas? Adventure World is a stop on the loop bus.
Extra time? Why not stay in Shirahama?
Shirahama is a gorgeous sea-side town with a beautiful white sand beach. The sand is imported from Western Australia! There are also plenty of other activities such as Adventure World and Energy Land to entertain you.
Where to stay on the beach in Shirahama:
- budget but comfortable: Guesthouse Shirahama
- mid-range: Nanki-Shirahama Marriott Hotel
- high-range: XYZ Private spa and seaside resort
Don’t get mixed up with Shirahama in Shizuoka
Shizuoka Prefecture also boasts a white sand beach called Shirahama, so make sure you don’t mix the two up when booking accommodation!
Shrine etiquette
Before embarking on the Kumano Kodo, read up on shrine etiquette to fully experience the spiritual side of the journey and show respect along the walks. This way you can practice mindfulness and be respectful at all times during your visit. Here is an easy step-by-step guide on what to do.
What to buy at the shrines
Decide which talismans or souvenirs you wish to collect on your journey. A stamp book is a great keepsake and your first shrine is the place to buy it.
Once you arrive at each shrine or temple you can hand over your book and ask for a stamp (goshuin) provided by the monks. They are beautiful and usually cost around ¥1000. Hand over your book with the page open where you would like the stamp.
The wooden plaques (ema) are usually stunning little wooden decorations with unique designs for each shrine. You write your goals and wishes on the back of the ema, then tie it up at the shrine for the monks to bless.
Omamori are good luck talismans shaped like colourful small pouches. There are many options for different situations such as safe childbirth, passing exams, recovering from an illness and even traffic safety. These usually cost around ¥300 to ¥700 each.
Dangers on the Kumano Kodo
The Kumano Kodo is located in the depths of the wildnerness in Wakayama prefecture so before embarking on the journey, it’s best to be prepared with an understanding of dangers you might come across.
Snakes: There are deadly snakes on the trail. I actually encountered one and it was not happy. As I was focused on my feet looking down at the path because I was quite tired, I wasn’t looking ahead until I was right in front of a snake and we startled each other.
The Japanese Pit Viper with its distinctive stripes and triangle-shaped head live along the trail. I suggest reading up on snake bite first aid just in case and bringing along bandages in your first aid kit.
Japanese Giant Hornet: I didn’t see any of these along the trail. However, if you are allergic to stings, bring your EpiPen just in case. They are most aggressive in their breeding season September and October and are attracted to the colour black, so wear light colours on the trail.
Bears: Black bears live on the island of Honshu in Japan. It’s best to carry a bell or whistle to make noise along the track to alert bears of your presence. You will see locals with a small bell tied to their backpack.
**For safety, please make sure you have mobile service on your phone on the Kumano Kodo. You may find yourself secluded, in danger, hurt or lost. I suggest using a pocket wifi such as Ninja WiFi or an e-sim (receive a 10% discount on both products via the links) to connect you on the trail.
What to pack for the Kumano Kodo
- Rain poncho: bring a rain poncho that also covers your backpack
- First aid kit: this should contain bandages, bandaids, antiseptic cream, scissors, gauze, allergy medicine and painkillers
- Insect repellant: heavy-duty repellant for mosquitos and other nuisances
- Sunscreen: even on a cloudy day with tree canopy, you can still get sunburned
- Hat: I encountered a bunch of caterpillars dangling from trees, so wear a hat to protect from the sun and the hanging caterpillars.
- Lightweight jacket: the weather can change quickly on the Kumano, so you need to be prepared for all situations.
- Water: some trails are quite remote. Bring enough water for your whole walk, a camelbak is perfect for hikes longer than 2km.
- Snacks: protein bars are a great snack to provide energy along the walk
- Plastic bag for rubbish: you won’t find rubbish bins along the trails, so expect to carry your rubbish.
- Small flashlight or headlamp: I don’t suggest you walk in the dark, but if you find yourself on a trail after dark, you will need light.
- Maps: you may lose cell or data service along the trail, so have maps printed out and ready
- Mobile phone and wifi: the best option is to have wifi for weather information, pre-loaded phone numbers in case of emergency and maps. Consider a service such as NinjaWifi which provides WiFi in 99% of locations in Japan with mobile service. You can pick this up at the airport upon arrival. They also have an e-sim option also if you prefer.
- ID: bring your passport or other ID
- Cash: bring cash with you in case you run out of water and need to use a vending machine, or want to buy snacks from a local honesty box, or shrine and temple gifts.
- Small pouch of 5 yen coins: (optional) I brought along a small pouch of lucky 5 yen coins so I could pray at each location along the trail.
- Wet wipes: keep your hands clean before eating snacks.
- Spare socks: to keep feet dry
Emergency numbers in Japan
The general emergency number in Japan is 119. However, along the Kumano Kodo, sign-posts indicate these numbers to call specifically, police: 110 and fire station: 119. Please save these in your phone in advance.
The best time of year for the Kumano Kodo
I would personally avoid summer (June, July, August) as it can be quite humid and uncomfortable. I would also avoid winter (December, January, February) unless you are a very experienced hiker, as there may be some snow on the trails and daylight hours are shorter.
Spring (March, April) is a popular time as is Autumn (October, November). I walked the trail in April and didn’t find it too busy. The tree colours in Autumn are reportedly beautiful and make a good reason to visit at that time.
Why are ¥5 coins lucky?
The ¥5 coin called ‘go-en dama’ in Japanese is a symbol of destiny. Japanese people believe this coin can bring fortunate events. ‘Go-en’ has the same pronunciation as the word for destiny.
Round up of Kumano Kodo Itinerary
Now you’ve read my idea of the perfect Kumano Kodo itinerary, I hope you feel confident to take the next steps and book your trip!
From this itinerary you can see the Kumano Kodo is about so much more than just hiking. You can also enjoy the spiritual journey, local culture and food, sightseeing and so much more.
Wakayama is my favourite prefecture. I am totally biased as my family comes from here, but it has so much beauty with the friendliest locals and less tourists.
Ganbatte (Good luck) on your Kumano Kodo adventure!
Watch the Perfect 47 Kumano Kodo itinerary video
